Few things bring such happiness in life as freshly-cooked dumplings. The little tubby parcels are the culinary equivalent of a cheek breaking grin. So approach Din Tai Fung with gum busting expectations. Even though the wait can peak 60 minutes, to pass the time there are menu checklists and a pen. Muse over steamed crabmeat and pork dumplings, braised beef noodle and cucumber with a chilli zest then tick - and you shall receive.
When plugging millions of dollars into refurbishing a pub, you have a few choices. You can do the obvious, and fit it out in that ubiquitous chrome and white, safe in the knowledge that the bar will fill up after work with Johnsons spilling Coronas on each other's suits.
Or you can do something interesting, and pay homage to the pub's former life as a comfortable den of iniquity.
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