The Zizioli brothers (Damiano, previously of Pizza Mario, and Fausto, the barista from Paddington Alimentari), along with their good friend Sam, have turned the simple into the sensational...

This is something of a tradition, said to have its beginnings in Emilia Romagna many moons ago. From this part of northern Italy, variations have been passed down through the regions between families, and now it is here in Sydney's Bondi Beach.

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The Italians have it down. They zip about on scooters and can always get a park. They wear tight pants. They eat pasta from a mumma and drink not in pubs, but wine libraries. Mille Vini won't find you a parking spot but it will bring a thousand wines to Crown Street.

From the same stable as Pizza e Birra, the local Enoteca contains a bible-thick booklet of wines, served beneath the eaves of a converted shop-front.

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‘L'Olioteca' ~ The ‘olive oil library'. At least that's what I think it means. Well, it sounds like ‘biblioteca', and that means ‘library' in Spanish. But these guys aren't Spanish, they're Italian and the truth is that I don't really know what I'm talking about. Likewise, I don't really know what I am talking about with wine tasting, or for that matter olive oil tasting.

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I’ll take the brusCHEtta. “Certainly sir. The brusHEtta.” This happened – twice - so now I can never ever eat on Norton Street again. One must have principles. So where to for genuine Italian? Haberfield.

The suburb is so ‘authentically’ Italian that Eastern suburbs mums have to organise guided tours (really - see Saturday mornings for proof).

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If you were looking for a new place to have dinner in Darlinghurst, then you will be very very very happy.

Two weeks ago, a cosy and delightful Italian restaurant opened on Victoria Street, as hidden as a Melburnian diner and as welcoming as your mother's kitchen.

The setting is simple: one communal table in the middle of the tiny room (it's like the last supper every night), a menu written on a big black wall, an open and noisy kitchen in the corner and big platter of fresh pasta drying on one end of the table.

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Love Supreme's mantra is "Emotional pizza for one and all". This is my regular Sunday night favourite now that Bosko & Vlady are back in Paddo. Emotional is the right adjective to describe how they make their food and look after everyone who walks in their door. I'm constantly amazed at their passion and excitement for getting better at what they already do so well.

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As well as being an excellent Italian restaurant, North Bondi Italian is also an exercise in branding that fits (be it a little too snugly) into the Bondi lifestyle. From their business cards, to their target rock'n'roll badges, to the staff clad in denim overalls this restaurant is about image.

Don't get us wrong, TwoThousand is not against branding as long as it is done well, but if you come to North Bondi Italian expecting traditional Italian you are only likely to find that in the cuisine.

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